Collar



J. B. BOLTON.

COLLAR.' APPLICATION HLED FEB. 26. 1914. RENEWED ocT.29,1919.

Pateted July 5, 1921. I

2 SHEETS-SHEET I //v VE/v rol? l 490/2220 A TTOH/VEYS L. B. BOLTON.

COLLAR. y APPLICATION FILED FEB. 26.11914. RENEWED OCT. 29,1919.

Patented Jny 192i.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

/iml I M@ I L Llrl .E

JOHN BLAHESLY BOLTON, OF METHUHN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOH TO JOHNiiiANNINcI VAN m'USEMjOF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR.

Specication of Letters Patent. Patented ully 5, 1921 Application ledFebruary 26, 1914, Serial No. 821,351. Renewed October 29, 1919. SerialNo. 334,37

T o all whom t may cof/warn.' j

Be it known that I, JOHN B. BOLTON, a citizen of the United States,residing at Methuen, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts,have'invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Collars; and I doherebyl declare the .following to be -a full, clear, and exactdescription of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in theart-to which it appertains to make and luse th esame.

In an application for'Letters Patent of the United States, filed of evendate here-v with Serial No. 821,350, I have described and claimed acollar suicientlysti to maintain its upright shapewithout the employmentof starch and nevertheless sufficiently pliable, by reason of theintroduction of reinforcing threads in the fabric to receive andmaintain a curvilinear set vappropriate to the wearers use.

The present invention comprises a modification ofthe structure shown inmy said application, and is illustrated inthe accompanying drawings, asapplied to a collar of the turn-over type, for which use it isparticularly adapted.

In the drawings,- i

Figure represents a collar of the turnover type embodying the presentinvention;

Fig.l 2 represents, in plan, a fragmentary view of a portionof themultiple ply interwoven fabric from which the collar is made,1

said view being-on `alarger scale than Fig. 1 Fig. 5 represents across-sectional yiew of 'fa portion of the same fabric, showing itfolded along the intended upper edge of the collar; y A

Fig. 4 represents a strip offabric made up of a series ofblanks woven 1na continuous length and adapted to be subsequently severed and to bethen fashioned into individual collars 5" Fig. ia is a longitudinalsection taken' along the line 4in- 4a of Fig. t showing thenon-interwoven portions of the blanks; p

Figs. 5 and 6 represent, respectively, the preferred manner of formingthe collar from the individual blank in such manner that one of thelayers of the composite fabric shall furnish a binding edge for the freeends of the collar.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged' view showing one form of interweaving of themultiply fabric.

Referring to the drawings, c indicates the intended outerelayer .ofwoven fabric (for instance, of cotton lor'linen), d the intermediatereinforce and e the innermost layer. The layers d and e are likewiseintended to be woven from cotton or linen, all three fabricsbeingof theusual quality familiar to the art,'eXcept that the reinforce layer,

which is preferably the intermediate one,

.- the diameter of the wire and its spun coat ing not exceeding usually,more than once or twice the gagev of the cotton or'linen thread fromwhich the fabric d is woven.

. The copper wire with its spun coating is of the kind frequentlyemployed in the construction of the insulated conductors of galvanometercoils and the like, and is of such softness and purity as to besusceptible of exure without tending to break. W hen in- -terwoven inthe fabric, it is invisible in the completedarticle, and the'compositefabric may be scrubbed and washed, mangled, and the. like, withouttaking any special precautions to avoid injury to the reinforce. rIhenumber of the copper wires employed will vary somewhat with the choicevof the manufacturer but will, in general, be in about the ratio of 20to 500 of the cotton threads when cotton constitutes the remainder ofthe fabric layer.

It will be noted that the intermediate layer (iis of only half the widthofthe fabric, in the form illustrated in the drawings. The function ofvthus limiting` its width is to permit the fold of the fabric,corresponding to the upper edge w of the collar (see Figs. 1 and 3) toconsist of the two outer soft layers c and e, thereby diminishing thevthickness vof the collar along this line of fold and thereforelessening the frictional eect of the rollers of the mangle when thecollar is being washed and laundried. The

Ifabric, asa whole, that isvto say, the three layers thereof arepreferably woven in a single operation upon `an appropriate loom,

' and the longitudinal'threads of the several layers are caught into theadjacent member of the series, so as to connect them together into amultiple ply interwoven fabric and avoid wrinkling, `for example, asillustrated in Fig. 7. Between the points indicated by the lines a-a ofFig. 4f, each of the individual blanks of the woven strip shown thereinare narrowed on the loom toward the center, so as to conform to theprevailing style of the turn-over collars, in this respect, although it`will lbe understood that this conformation of the blank may be alteredwithin wide limits to conform to variations in configuration as they maybe determined by the choice of the manufacturer and the requirements ofthe trade. n .order to provide for protecting the otherwise raw edges ofthe freeends of the collar, the' buttonhole tabs of the several layersare not interwoven but remain separate from the intermediate layer ofthe fabric in the weaving operation, as indicated in Fig. 4a; so thatwhen-the blank is cuiJ "to the configuration shown in Fig. 5, the cutedges of oneof the outside fabrics,k maybe folded reversely and stitchedas shown at 7' in Fig. 6,' and so that the other outer fabric may besimilarly reversed in the opposite directionand likewise sewed,y asshown at a in said Fig. 6, thereby adding to the acceptable appearanceofthe completed article.

"While,y as hereinbefore described, the reinforcing layer may beprovided with softv copper reinforcing threads," these threads may be,in some instances omitted, provided thatthe yreinforcing layer is ofsuch a char-` acter as to allow the collar asta whole toK take on apermanent set when bent to collar form, which is the main purpose andintent of the invention. This functioncan be attained, in someinstances, by so close a weave of the composite fabric and such aninterweave of the individual 'layers thereof that the necessity ofemploying threads of a kind corresponding tothe soft copper wires may beavoided. i

What claim is y y l. A shirt collar, made up of a composite fabriccomprising an inner and an outer layer together with an intermediatereinforce, said inner and outer layers and said reinforce beinginterwoven and inherently capable, in an unstarched condition, of tak-`ing and maintaining a curvilinear set.

2. A folding shirt collar, made up of a composite fabric comprising aninner andan outer layer with an. intermediate reinforce, said reinforcebeing provided with threads interwoven therewith and-inherently capablein an unstarched condition of rew ceiving and maintaining a curvilinearset,

said reinforce extending upwardly tothe fabric made up of an inner andanouter.

layer of woven fiber of the entire width of the collar and anintermediate reinforcing' layer of half the width of the collar, vsaidreinforcing layer being provided with liongitudinal threads of softmetal capable of taking and maintaining a' curvilinear set, thefolded'edge of the collarbeing constituted by the two outer layers.

, 4. A shirt collar made up of a composite fabric, comprising an inner`and-an outer layer of fabric,A and an intermediate rein.

forcing layer,.said several layers being interwoven, so as to avoidwrinkling when folded, and the reinforcing layer being provided withpliable longitudinal threads of amaterial inherently capable. in an`unstarched con- 4 dition of taking and maintaining a curvilinear set,the outer layers being continued beyond' the intermediate layer at thefree ends of thecollar and being reversely bentl l and sewed` so as tobind said free ends. l5. A. folding shirt collar, made up of a compositefabric comprising an inner and an outerlaye'r with an intermediatereinforce',

said several layers being interwoven and inherently capable, as' awhole, ink an unstarched condition of receiving and maintaining acurvilinear'set, said reinforce eX- tending upwardly tothe folded edgeof the collar.

6. Afolding collar, madeup of a neck i band portion and a foldingportion woven integral therewith of multiple ply -interwoven fabric, theneck band being woven ,thicker and stier than the foldingportion,

"and the collar folding along theedge of said neck band. n

'7. Ar folding collar, Jmade up of a neck band portion and a foldingportion woven integral therewith of multiple ply. interwoven fabric, oneof said portions being of Q-ply interwoven fabric, and the other portionhaving a third layer-A of fabric interwoven therewith to `form athickerand stiffer portion, and ythe collar folding along the edge of/said thicker portion. J l

8. A folding collar, madeup of a neckband. portion anda folding portion,the. neckband portion being `of 'multiple-,ply interwoven fabric andhaving an integral thin extensiony forming the fold portion of thecollar.

9A. folding collar, made up of Ya neckband portion and afolding'porti'on woven integral therewith, the folding portion be,

ing of multiple-ply interwoven fabricand the neckband comprising althicker portion of the fabric than the folding portion.

ln testimony whereof lf aix my signature, in presence of two witnesses.

Jenn .erinnert Borrow' lFlitnesses: i

HERBERT Glenna,

WALTER Barns FARB.

